Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from the Spring-Summer 2025 Shows
What role can fashion play during challenging times? As France and much of Europe face the rising influence of far-right parties, notable lawsuits linked to the #MeToo movement, and a downturn in the luxury sector, designers at Paris Fashion Week, which concluded on Tuesday, posed this important question.
A Blend of Heritage and Surrealism
For some, the idea of heritage provided solace, while others turned to surrealism and bold designs, reflecting a desire for escape. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali continued to craft her boho-chic vision, drawing inspiration from the brand’s roots. The collection featured floral prints, ruffled shirts, pleated sleeves, billowy blouses, and lace ballerina pumps, encapsulating the airy allure synonymous with the house.
Valentino held its highly anticipated show on Sunday, marking the debut of new creative director Alessandro Michele, formerly of Gucci. Michele explored Valentino’s archives, particularly its vibrant ’70s period, resulting in a vintage-inspired collection adorned with bows, polka dots, lace gloves, and sequins—many details only visible up close.
At Alexander McQueen, Seán McGirr presented his second collection, which included the mythical figure of “the banshee,” referenced by the late founder in the ’90s. The collection featured gothic tailoring and heavy platform heels, nodding to the brand’s distinctive DNA.
Indie Sleaze Revival
Ann Demeulemeester introduced an indie sleaze revival, a nostalgic nod to the pop culture era dominated by alternative bands from 2006 to 2012. Under the creative direction of Stefano Gallici, the collection showcased New Romantic elements with ruffled collars, sheer lace fabrics, and disheveled tailoring. “It was a deep dive into my teenage years…living with my band,” Gallici shared backstage.
Surrealism Meets Modernity
This year marked the 100th anniversary of Surrealism at the Centre Pompidou, a movement that arose during Europe’s fascist rise and a time of existential crisis. This artistic period inspired not just curators but also fashion designers. Alphonse Maitrepierre’s collection incorporated modern technology into fashion, featuring USB sticks, game console controllers, and computer screens as jewelry and clothing. “I wondered what Surrealism would look like today,” he explained. “It would certainly be more nerdy and geeky, integrating easily accessible new technologies.”
The surrealist theme manifested in various collections: Issey Miyake transformed sweaters into dresses, Ottolinger deconstructed shirts and repurposed collars, and Paloma Wool reimagined knitwear in unexpected ways.
Coperni also embraced the surreal, staging its show at Disneyland, where models donned Mickey Mouse-shaped heels and whimsical handbags. Designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant reflected on childhood memories to evoke feelings of innocence and play, incorporating dramatic lighting and fireworks around the iconic Sleeping Beauty castle.
Designer-less Collections
At the Grand Palais, a designer-less Chanel showcased a collection filled with delicate embroideries and intricate featherwork crafted by the in-house studio. The collection celebrated “delicacy, lightness, and movement” with sheer capes, layered tweeds, skirts adorned with fringes and sequins, exemplifying the artisanry for which Chanel is renowned.
Dries Van Noten also presented a collection without a designated designer, honoring the founder while offering a fresh perspective. The pieces included lingerie, oversized blazers, fluid slip-on dresses, and Bermuda shorts, all reinterpreted with vibrant colors and intricate embroidery.
A Commitment to Sustainability
Stella McCartney’s show emphasized sustainability, featuring a collection that was 91% recyclable. The designs, blending party pieces and menswear, showcased a recurring bird motif on printed silks and necklaces, serving as a protest against their use in the fashion industry. “I’ve been thinking of the billions of birds that get killed for the fashion industry,” McCartney said backstage. “They represent freedom, purity, and peace. It’s about having a lightness of touch and a balance between femininity and masculinity.”
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood dedicated his collection to environmental activist Paul Watson, who is currently imprisoned in Greenland for his anti-whaling efforts. The collection paid homage to Dame Vivienne’s legacy, merging ladylike aesthetics with industrial influences, reminding us that punk is a philosophy that transcends clothing.
